You may feel left out when social media is awash with women and some men with elaborate nighttime skincare routines, each promising glowing, youthful skin by morning.

But before you add another serum or cream, your skin may be asking for something much simpler.

While you sleep, it is already busy repairing itself, and for most people, dermatologists say, a good cleanse and moisturiser may be all it needs.

“The skin mostly rejuvenates every hour of the day and night, but at night is when there’s more rejuvenation,” says Dr Pauline Gacheri, a dermatologist, adding that this involves repair, increased cell turnover and recovery from environmental stress.

“During the day, the skin is exposed to stressors such as UV radiation and pollution, but at night, these environmental stresses are reduced.”

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There is also a physiological shift that happens as the body rests.

“During the day, most of the blood supply concentrates on the areas that you're using most, especially the brain and the muscles,” she says. “But at night your brain settles, your muscles are relaxed, so the blood supply tends to concentrate more now on the skin.”

She notes that the increased blood flow to the skin means more nutrients, immune cells, and other resources are available to support the skin’s repair and rejuvenation. However, that does not mean you need an elaborate collection of products to take advantage of the process.

“There are steps that are a must for at night, and there are steps that are a must during the day. Anything else beyond that, we add accordingly,” she says.

At night, cleansing is essential, particularly for anyone who has worn makeup, sunscreen or several layers of skincare during the day. She recommends cleansing thoroughly and, where necessary, double cleansing.

skincare — When it comes to cleaning your skin, first off, drop the word ‘wash.’

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“Double cleansing is not really much science. It means you just wash your face twice.”

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She explains that the first cleanse helps remove makeup, sunscreen and accumulated products, while the second cleans the skin more thoroughly. This should be followed by moisturising.

“After that, you moisturise very, very well, and that's it for the night,” she says.

She notes the routine changes when there is a particular skin concern to address. Someone dealing with pigmentation may need a targeted treatment, while someone with photo-ageing may be advised to use a retinoid. Still, those with acne may also require a specific active ingredient.

“So anything we add beyond cleansing and moisturising at night is because you are targeting something,” she says.

“In the morning, it will look different. You will cleanse, you will moisturise, and then you have to do sunscreen.”

This distinction, she says, also helps explain why some skincare products are recommended at particular times of the day.

Vitamin C, for example, can be used at night but is particularly useful in the morning because it is a powerful antioxidant and supports protection against UV-related damage when used alongside sunscreen.

Retinoids, on the other hand, are generally used at night.

“If we are giving you anything with a retinoid, for example, tretinoin or retinol serum and things like that, we'll ask you to use them at night,” she says.

Retinoids can cause sensitivity and irritation, and some are affected by UV exposure. People using them should therefore be diligent about sun protection during the day.

For someone in their 20s or early 30s without a specific skin concern, those basics may be all that is needed. Additional products can then be introduced depending on the skin's needs.

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Dr Gacheri notes that the pressure is not only about how many products people use, but also about what they believe healthy skin should look like. She cautions against routinely using products containing steroids unless they have been prescribed for a specific medical condition.

“We avoid steroids unless you are under treatment, and the dermatologist or a skin doctor asked you to use a steroid, which is usually a specific percentage for a specific time.”

Hydroquinone, too, has a legitimate medical use but should be prescribed at an appropriate concentration and for a limited period rather than used continuously. Mercury is another ingredient of concern because of its use in some cosmetic products marketed for their bleaching effects.

“Mercury is very much used in the cosmetic industry, because it also causes some bleaching effect,” she says. “But also this is a metal that actually can accumulate in our body, and can be found even in internal organs, just from using it on the skin.”

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For consumers, she notes one of the biggest challenges is knowing exactly what is in the products they are buying. She says the Kenyan cosmetics market has a significant black-market component, with some products lacking ingredient lists altogether, while others may not accurately declare their contents or concentrations.

She adds that for a healthy person without a specific skin concern, there may be little reason to layer product after product before bed. For individuals with acne, pigmentation, dryness or signs of photo-ageing, targeted products can be useful.

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eintabo@ke.nationmedia.com