A few years ago, when fine dining was all the rage in Kenya, foie gras, a luxury delicacy made from the enlarged liver of a duck or goose, was among the exotic dishes that were a must-order.

The buttery-tasting dish was long a symbol of French gastronomy, and hotels were willing to absorb high import costs and endure the painstaking logistics of securing supplies.

But now they have scrapped it from the menu. Reason? Chefs say it failed to whet the appetite of many Kenyan diners and made no economic sense. They cite rising import costs, inconsistent supply and a growing preference for locally sourced foods, which have now been elevated in fine-dining restaurants.

“The availability and the expense for suppliers to bring it in. It’s expensive, so not many people put it on their menu,” says

Chef Archie Athanasius, the Executive Chef at Mövenpick Hotel Nairobi.

Photo credit: File | Nation Media Group

He gives an example of other ingredients such as fresh truffles and French goat cheese.

“Getting fresh truffles from France and Italy is very difficult. Again, it’s the shelf life. Goat cheese from France would be great to put on your menu, but you can’t sustain it.”

The cost

The chef, one of the pioneers who helped revolutionise fine dining in Kenya, says the decline of foie gras has been gradual.

“Five years ago, we used to do about three to four kilos a week. Currently, I don’t even think they have it in the market at all. It’s also very expensive to bring in the products,” he says.

The delicacy used to be imported from France and served as a premium starter, with a single portion retailing at about Sh5,000.

“We used to serve about 100 grammes with melba toast and cranberry sauce made with wine. We would sear the foie gras lightly, place it on top of the cranberry sauce and serve it with a very thin toast called melba toast,” he says.

However, unlike other menu items, foie gras required a guaranteed demand to justify the cost of importing and stocking it.

“Unless you’re using it at a banquet where you’ve already sold it to 50 people, you’re going to lose money,” he says. “But to have it as an à la carte item like we used to do, it will not work for me.”

Chef Athanasius, however, adds that foie gras is still one of the finest ingredients and hotels occasionally consider it for embassy dinners, diplomatic receptions or other high-end private functions where the demand is guaranteed and the cost can be factored into the menu price.

“The flavour is excellent,” he says “It complements beef fillet, seared duck breast. You can have it as a starter by itself, or with toast and truffles. If you have black truffles, foie gras can be a nice starter in a fine dining restaurant.”

Another reason is that Kenya’s luxury dining market is changing, with diners moving away from the once-fashionable obsession with exotic imported delicacies.

Radisson Blu Upperhill Executive Chef Wayne Walkinshaw.

Photo credit: File | Nation Media Group

Chef Wayne Walkinshaw, Executive Chef at Radisson Blu, says foie gras arrived in Kenya largely through French culinary traditions that catered to diplomats, expatriates and international travellers.

“Back in the day, foie gras was seen as a status product. Nowadays, people’s tastes have changed. The local Kenyan market does not see foie gras as a status product,” he says.

Instead, the diners value authenticity, provenance and freshness.

“People are looking more at premium-sourced local produce that they can utilise. That’s why I think foie gras is no longer important. It doesn’t carry that status value as it does in Europe,” he says.

This shift also reflects a broader evolution across the world. Years ago, luxury dining meant serving imported ingredients from countries like Europe regardless of the cost or distance it travelled.

Today, chefs say diners are asking different questions. Where was the food sourced? Is it sustainable? Does it support local producers? Can the chef tell the story behind every ingredient?

Those questions are influencing how chefs create menus.

Acquired taste

Also, taste played a role. Foie gras has a buttery texture and rich flavour, which can be less appealing to diners unfamiliar with it.

“It’s an acquired taste,” Chef Walkinshaw says. “If you haven’t tasted foie gras, I promise you it’s an acquired taste. I don’t think the Kenyan palate wants that. They want familiar things, especially when it comes to textures and flavours.”

But that does not mean Kenyan diners are unwilling to experiment. In fact, both chefs observe that guests have become increasingly adventurous, but within familiar flavours.

“They’re venturing into different flavours. But I also find that fine dining is no longer a thing. We’re moving away from that to more rustic and more practical dishes,” Chef Athanasius.

Sustainability woes

The disappearance of foie gras is also part of a wider sustainability movement sweeping through global restaurants.

Foie gras production has long attracted criticism from animal welfare groups because the ducks and geese are traditionally force-fed to enlarge their livers. Several countries have introduced restrictions on its production or sale, while many luxury hotels and restaurants have removed it from menus.

Mulard ducks wait to be fed at the Ferme Basque in St-Urbain, June 6, 2009.

Photo credit: Pool

Chef Athanasius believes health considerations also play a role.

“It’s also very unhealthy. The ducks are force-fed until the liver becomes very big. So it’s really fatty. I think it’s also going to become illegal very soon because it’s very inhumane to do that.”

He adds that sustainability is becoming part of everyday kitchen operations in international hotel chains.

At Mövenpick, for instance, recipes are assessed using an internal sustainability tool known as Footsteps, which calculates the carbon footprint of each dish and categorises it according to its environmental impact.

“You put a recipe into Footsteps, and it calculates the carbon footprint. There are different categories. There’s green, and there’s red.”

Ingredients such as beef, seafood and foie gras typically fall within the higher carbon footprint category, helping chefs balance menus as hotels work towards broader sustainability targets.

Local ingredients take centre stage

Instead of exotic ingredients such as foie gras, chefs are now keen on high-quality imported steaks, locally farmed oysters, Kenyan fruits, vegetables and herbs elevated using French and Japanese cooking techniques.

“Chefs are catering for the local market using local produce that’s locally sourced and elevating it,” Chef Walkinshaw says.

Even so, consistency is still one of the industry’s biggest challenges.

“You’ll buy something today, it’s great, and tomorrow it’s not. That’s one of the biggest challenges in Kenya. But if it is local produce, it can be delivered consistently, which makes it a great product.”

While foie gras once occupied the premium starter category, chefs are finding practical alternatives, though they insist that nothing truly replicates it.

“We can use chicken liver pâté, which can be made in-house, but it’s not that it has replaced foie gras. You cannot replace foie gras. It’s on another level. We try and get as close as possible with chicken liver.”

mrsitawa@ke.nationmedia.com